Sunday, 24 February 2008

2006_09_01_archive



Egeszegedre!

Been here, seen this...at last. I've been wanting to go to Budapest

for decades. Friends who studied there would return with tales of

stylistic expertise, pedagogical inspiration, extraordinary

traditions, cheap music, cheaper opera tickets and excessively good

cakes. Violinist friends flocked to Hungarian-born teachers living

abroad (here or Canada); the great 19th-century violinists and the

traditions they left behind sprang almost wholly from Hungary,

including Josef Joachim and Leopold Auer and later Jelly d'Aranyi, who

was Joachim's great-niece. As for Gypsy fiddling traditions, have you

ever seen anything quite as astonishing as Roby Lakatos?

Now the place is an extraordinary melting pot of old and new,

19th-century Art Nouveau grandeur alongside communist-era concrete

heaps, bullet-scarred, soot-covered buildings in downtown Pest

contrasting with sleek, renovated, olde-worlde central Europe for

tourists - but exquisite nonetheless - in Buda. Cranes everywhere.

This is a city on the up, enchanting, atmospheric, disturbing, magical


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